Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?
Prior to going natural, I was relaxed for several years. During that period, I learned what to do and what not to do for my hair to thrive. In this post, I list the basic "to do's" which I hope can be a good starting point for those who desire healthy relaxed tresses. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak these "basics":
*STRETCH YOUR RELAXERS
Damage can occur when the hair is relaxed too frequently. It is important to allow sufficient new growth to accumulate before your next touch up session; this waiting period is called "stretching". Another benefit to this technique is less exposure to the chemicals associated with relaxing. The scalp gets a longer "break" between relaxing sessions.
Many women with healthy relaxed hair "stretch" their relaxers for 3-6 months at a time, and I recommend the same to you. During that period, do low manipulation styles in order to minimize breakage and tangling.
Many women with healthy relaxed hair "stretch" their relaxers for 3-6 months at a time, and I recommend the same to you. During that period, do low manipulation styles in order to minimize breakage and tangling.
*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your new growth is significant, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is ideal to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. Instead, gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safer side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Desert Essence Shampoos
*DEEP CONDITION & DETANGLE AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a plastic bag and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 30 minutes. Then detangle with a wide tooth comb and rinse.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains strengthening ingredients, such as hydrolyzed collagen or hydrolyzed keratin, near the top of the list. The amount/type of the ingredient depends on how much strengthening your hair requires. I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and moisture. This will ease the detangling process and provide a protein-moisture balance, respectively. Deep conditioners like this usually contain an oil and/or a fatty alcohol (e.g., cetyl alcohol) for slip ... and glycerin and other humectants for moisture.
Product recommendations for strength: Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor; Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise; Homemade egg conditioner (recipes here)
Product recommendations for strength, moisture, & slip: Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Replenishing Pak; Lekair Cholesterol (mixed with olive oil); Aubrey Organics GPB Balancing Conditioner; Egg/mayonnaise/olive oil (recipe here under "Loo's recipe");
*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for our hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on spritz and then re-seal. Another option is to use a water-based spritz or moisturizer.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant)
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped shea butter (recipe here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine
AIRDRY IN ROLLERS & VOILA!
Get a smooth sleek look while minimizing heat usage by airdrying in a rollerset. For hair with a lot of new growth, do a ponytail rollerset to avoid puffy roots (video tutorial); just be sure not to apply too much tension via hair ties. Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep.
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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:
*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner the out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly. Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea
*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo (not as drying as other clarifying shampoos)
*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:
For more on prepooing, check this post.
*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:
For more on prepooing, check this post.
**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.
